THE PARTHENON AT ATHENS IN AND NEAR ATHENS
WHAT Greece is like in spring, I have no idea, when rains have fallen, and spherical Athens the nation is inexperienced, when the white mud maybe doesn’t whirl via Structure Sq. and over the backyard in regards to the Zappeion, when the depth of the solar shouldn’t be fierce on the street to the naked Acropolis, and the guardians of the Parthenon, of their lengthy coats the colour of a dervish’s hat, don’t go to sleep within the patches of shade forged on the recent floor by Doric columns. I used to be there on the finish of the summer season, and lots of mentioned to me, “It’s best to are available spring, when it’s inexperienced.”
Greece have to be very totally different then, however can it’s rather more lovely ?
Disembark on the Pineus at daybreak, take a carriage, and drive by Phalerum, the bathing-place of the Athenians, to Athens on the finish of the summer season, and although for simply six months no rain has fallen, you’ll enter a shower of dew. The street is dry and dusty, however there is no such thing as a wind, and the mud lies nonetheless. The ambiance is marvelously clear, as it’s, say, at Is- mailia within the early morning*. The Hellenes, when they’re speaking fairly naturally, in the event that they communicate of Europe, all the time communicate of it as a continent through which Greece shouldn’t be included. They speak of “going to Europe.” They are saying to the English stranger, “You come to us recent from Europe.” And as you drive towards Athens you perceive.
This nation is a part of the East, though the Greeks have been the individuals who saved Europe from being dominated by the races of Asia. All about you —you haven’t but reached Phalerum—you see nation that appears like the start of a desert, that holds a fascination of the desert. The few timber arise like carved issues. The small, Jap-looking homes, a lot of them with flat roofs, earth-colored, white, or tinted with mauve and pale colours, scattered casually and apparently with none plan over the completely naked and tawny floor, look from a distance as in the event that they, too, have been carved, as in the event that they have been really part of the substance of their surroundings, not imposed upon it by an out of doors power. The transferring determine of a person, sporting the white fustanella, has the unusual great thing about an Arab transferring alone within the huge sands. And but there’s something right here that’s definitely not of Europe, however that isn’t wholly of the East—one thing very delicate, very pure, very delicate, very particular person, free from the Jap drowsiness, from the heavy Jap fragrance which disposes the soul of man to inertia.